I was having trouble with my chain falling off in a low gear at high speeds (20+ MPH). I always thought the “B screw” on the rear derailleur was used for chain tension but I was wrong (see here for a great article from Park Tool). After searching the Dost owners group on Facebook I found people with the same issue which was remedied by installing the Lekkie Bling ring so I gave it a try. It’s a bit expensive but worth it if it proves to help. I really liked the look of the drivetrain cover and cracked mine when reinstalling it after re-greasing my BBS02 so I ordered that as well. I ordered straight from Lekkie in New Zealand as the drivetrain cover didn’t seem to be available stateside, only took about a week to get it through DHL.
|Technical Skill:||(1.0 / 5)|
|Cost:||(3.5 / 5)|
|Time commitment:||(1.0 / 5)|
|PITA factor:||(1.0 / 5)|
Make sure you have the tools needed for the job, here is everything I used:
- Lekkie 46T bling ring
- Lekkie 2mm Spacer
- Lekkie BBS01/BBS02 drivetrain cover (OPTIONAL)
- Park Tool Compact Crank Puller (Anyone will do)
- Adjustable Wrench (can use other wrenches, for use on the crank puller)
- 2.5mm, 4mm, 5mm and 8mm Allen Key
- Phillips Screwdriver (If replacing drivetrain cover)
- Loctite (If replacing drivetrain cover)
- Dab of grease or oil when reinstalling crank arms
- Remove your chainguard using a 2.5mm allen wrench, 1 allen bolt above the crank, and 1 in front of the rear derailleur
- Remove the 8MM crank bolt located at the base of the crank arm
- Thread your crank puller into the hole (with the secondary bolt loosened out) as far as it will go in. Use your adjustable wrench to tighten the secondary bolt on the crank puller in, this will pry the crank arm off the crank. It might take a fair bit of force, brace yourself on the pedal while doing this. It will be super hard at first but will get super easy once it eases off the taper
- Remove the chain ring cover using a 5mm allen wrench
- Take your chain off of the chain ring and let it dangle towards the rear of the bike. This is easiest if you are in the smallest gear. You can pull the bottom part of the chain towards the front of the bike so the derailleur loosens up to make it easier.
- Using your 4mm allen wrench, remove the 5 bolts holding the chainring to the drivetrain
- (Continue to step 8 if not doing the cover) If you’re installing the secondary drivetrain cover, remove the 7 tiny Philips screws around the cover
- IMPORTANT! The new drivetrain cover is MUCH smaller/thinner than the stock one. Lekkie recommends using 3Nm of force on these bolts. That is virtually nothing. You need to use loctite on these 7 little screws to ensure they don’t back themselves out. If you screw them in too tight they will rub against the secondary drive and mess up the gasket (don’t ask how I know this) Install your new drivetrain cover reusing the tiny bolts you just took out with Loctite on them at 3nM, aka 26 in/lbs. aka 2.1 ft/lbs. (Click here for Lekkie’s manual on the cover)
- Place your 2mm Lekkie spacer over the crank lining up the holes
- Install your Blingring over this (writing facing out) and tighten in the 5 crank bolts. I like to tighten these like a tire on a car, criss-cross, up/down… I snug them up pretty tight, loctite wouldn’t be a bad idea here.
- Pull your chain back over the Blingring. You’ll notice that the “narrow/wide” feature on this chainring is much tighter than the stock chainring. Pretty awesome if you ask me. If the chain isn’t sitting flush, move the chainring a bit so the narrow/wide matches.
- Grease/Oil the square crank tapered area and then reinstall your crank arm by removing the crank tool, pushing the pedal onto the square, making sure it’s opposite the other pedal and using the 8mm crank bolt to tighten it up. You can go full ham on this bolt to get it as close to the crank as possible. I find using the pedal to tighten rather than the 8mm wrench to tighten it gets more leverage and I can really crank it in there.
- You’re done, enjoy!
Thoughts and other random stuff
The difference in the narrow/wide feature of this chainring is incredible. The chain will not go over the chainring unless it lines up correctly. Very different from the stock chain ring.
Here are a few pictures comparing the stock chainring and cover plate:
So far so good, I purposely hit a bump that for the last 3-4 rides always made my chain fall off and all was well. I’ll keep this post updated should that change as I’ve just installed it recently.